by La Caravella in Amalfi, and now the area has one of the highest concentration of stars in Italy. But that's not the whole story and some of the best eating experiences are to be had in authentic trattorias that are well off the tourist radar. The culinary traditions here are influenced by the dual existence of sea and mountains and the warm, sunny climate: flavors are bold and colors are bright.
Eating options are limited this high up in the mountains, but it's worth the trek first to visit Marisa Cuomo's winery and second to eat at her sister Ermina's exceptional restaurant just up the road. The menu gives equal billing to elegant seafood, meat and vegetable dishes served on a terrace with dizzying views; the signature ferrazzuoli alla nanarella (pasta with smoked swordfish, cherry tomatoes, pine nuts and sultanas) is a must and dessert includes cicale di furore' little cakes made with prickly pears and almonds. The wine list features many interesting local labels, but the obvious choice is a bottle of Cuomo's superb white Fiorduva.