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Hostaria Bacco Furore - Amalfi Coast

Erminia Cuomo: the cook of "the country that is not there"

08-November-2023

A handful of houses scattered here and there, tenaciously clinging to the sheer cliffs overlooking the incredible sea of the Amalfi Coast - the "Divine Coast" - scattered among impervious little streets, almost hidden by the lush vegetation of small forests, vegetable gardens, arbors with lemon trees, olive trees and "heroic" vineyards contained with difficulty by the very old dry stone walls of the terraces.

The mountain, rock cloaked in green that creeps between the delicate blue of the sky and the deep blue of the sea, with endless vistas that take your breath away and bring you closer to God. Wild nature, dazzling sunshine, boundless sea and silences that invite meditation.

This is Wrath - "the village that isn't there"-between Sorrento and Pompeii on one side and Positano and Amalfi on the other. No main square, no cluster of houses, just steep paths, craggy lanes and stairways, created over time to lead from the sea to this small and almost invisible fishing village and their scattered dwellings, white dots against the green background.

Actually, the town is there, all right... and it is famous for its fascinating Fjord-a beautiful gorge with rocky beach downstream, topped by stone arch bridge, the scene of the MarMeeting, the World Championship Diving from Great Heights, as many as 28 meters-it is part of the "Most beautiful villages in Italy", is known as "The Painted Country," for the more than one hundred and fifty sculptural works and murals that adorn the walls of streets and homes, has been declared a "European Destination of Excellence" for the EU's EDEN Project, and is also a UNESCO "World Heritage Site." Last but not least, it is a "Wine City," famous for producing one of Italy's best whites.

With all these accolades, Furore certainly could not lack a restaurant, indeed, "the restaurant" - the Antica Hostaria di Bacco - which almost a hundred years ago was opened by the grandfather of Raffaele Ferraioli, the current owner, a Furorese DOC, who runs it together with the great cook who is Erminia Cuomo, his wife, valuing good hospitality and sacred welcome.

Reported by the most prestigious food guides, it is also part of the Buon Ricordo Restaurants, the union of establishments that have represented the best expression of Italian regional cuisine for over fifty years.

Erminia Cuomo got an early start in learning the art of cooking. A young bride of Raffaele, catapulted as soon as she came of age into the Ferraioli family's trattoria, she recently crossed the 50-year mark as both wife and cook.

The protagonist of a cuisine rich in fragrances that are as simple as they are refined, as rare as they are prized, his dishes are centered on the flavors and aromas handed down from the cuisine of the local tradition of both land and sea, with proposals that strictly follow seasonality and thus the genuineness, authenticity, naturalness and freshness of the raw materials, used according to the ancient and never outdated rule of simplicity that respects tradition.

Among the various traditional dishes, enhanced by Erminia's skilled hands, we find the classic Reginette with furitano pesto - With the sweet and tasty Piennolo Tomatoes - the original Cavatelli to the caper leaves, the savory and intense Linguine with anchovy drippings, the appetizing Squid and potatoes, the Migliaccio - main dish of Neapolitan Mardi Gras - and the Marinated soup, rich in flavor, celebrating the "marriage" between meat and mixed green leafy vegetables, one of the Neapolitan dishes with the oldest origins.

But not only tradition feeds mankind, and the offerings broaden to include seafood dishes, shellfish, fish and mollusks prepared without frills or, even worse, sauces that disguise their essence, to bring out even more of their pure, natural flavors, without taste deviations.

Simple but expertly cooked dishes that have helped spread the name of Erminia and her restaurant which a few decades earlier, in 1947, had also experienced moments of the tormented love affair between Roberto Rossellini and Anna Magnani, the Nannarella beloved by all of Italy, along with a few fleeting passes by their dear friend Federico Fellini. Anna loved pasta very much, especially the Ferrazzuoli made at home by Mamma Letizia, Erminia's mother-in-law, and to this day it is still one of the most popular pasta dishes among Bacco's patrons.

Good food should always be paired with the good vino and to this fundamental union Raffaele and Erminia have dedicated a particularly evocative environment, an old cistern adapted as a wine cellar in which are stored about 5,000 bottles, including some masterpieces of Italian and foreign oenology.

Obviously, and it could not be otherwise, special attention is paid to the wines of the Amalfi Coast area, especially the local ones: wines from heroic viticulture, precious and rare, celebrated even by the great Luigi Veronelli, extraordinary and award-winning wines such as the Furore DOC white, rosé or red from the Marisa Cuomo Winery - Erminia's sister - located just behind the restaurant.

Over the years, the restaurant has grown and modernized without, however, losing its imprint as an old Hostaria, with its typical Mediterranean architecture; it also has about 20 rooms to accommodate those who want to romantically prolong the admirable vision combined with the memory of this little paradise.

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